This project is called the “Ecomuseum of the Cultural Landscape of the Upper Utcubamba Valley.” To put it more simply, it is the Routes of the Ecomuseum of Chachapoyas. The innovative program is based on a sustainable tourism approach, in collaboration with local communities, to preserve the rich culture and unique environment of this region.
Since 2019, the Ministry of Culture, the Amazonas Decentralized Directorate of Culture, the Regional Government of Amazonas through DIRCETUR, and JICA (Japan International Cooperation Agency) have worked together with selected communities in the Amazonas region to offer not only visits to the region’s pre-Inca archaeological sites but also a much closer insight into living traditions still present today.
Why the Routes of the Ecomuseum of Chachapoyas?
The goal was to reposition the cultural landscape of the Upper Utcubamba Valley. Before starting, they conducted a study of the different districts and eventually chose six communities. A working group was formed between the various entities, the villagers, and the project’s technical team. The mission was to accompany the communities in uncovering the hidden treasures of each place. The villagers themselves chose the “treasures” they wanted to share and showcase to visitors.
Once the treasures were decided, the tourist Routes of the Ecomuseum of Chachapoyas began to take shape. Each route is guided by people from the community itself. To ensure a good experience, they received training in this regard. These villagers are called “cultural promoters.” They promote their village and traditions and pass on their intangible culture while sharing it with visitors. They also received training in food preparation, horseback riding, and crafts.
Giving the opportunity to different communities to be part of the tourism development
The communities of San Bartolo and Cruzpata were already receiving tourists who came to visit the archaeological sites. With the Routes of the Ecomuseum of Chachapoyas, they now have added value. The traditional activities, chosen by the villagers, are diverse. They include typical meals or activities such as bread making or local grinding method. The history of building muesca houses or the myth of chocho (tarwi) shows visitors another side of the region.
Other communities like Cuemal or La Jalca are just beginning to develop. But since the establishment of the Ecomuseums Routes of Amazonas, they have started to receive visitors. This is encouraging for public entities. Their goal is to make these ecomuseum routes viable tourist routes for the villagers.
Each discovery Routes of the Ecomuseum of Chachapoyas takes about a day and sometimes is paired with a visit to an archaeological site. In my article, I have numbered the discovery routes, but in reality, there is no specific order to follow. 🙂
Discovery Route 1: Karajia, Guerreros Pucahuia (Cruzpata)
One of the new discovery routes of the Routes of the Ecomuseum of Chachapoyas combines a visit to the Karajia sarcophagi with a coca ritual and a culinary experience featuring chocho, a local vegetable.
Departure from Chachapoyas in the morning to head towards Cruzpata (about an hour’s drive). Cruzpata is located at 2,800 meters above sea level. Upon arrival, you will first visit the interpretation center where the “cultural promoter” will introduce you to the pre-Inca Chachapoya culture. The cultural promoter is a local villager who is dedicated to preserving and transmitting their culture and traditions. In the interpretation center, you will find human remains and offerings saved from looters.
After the visit, you will go on a hike of about 30 minutes to the viewpoint over the Karajia sarcophagi. Along the way, you will pass fields of local crops such as potatoes, corn, and beans. Upon reaching the viewpoint, you will perform a coca leaf ritual to ask for permission from the ancestors before entering the world of the dead at KarajĂa.
It’s important to note that you will see the sarcophagi from a distance as they are located on a cliff directly in front of you. The question of how the Chachapoya placed them there remains a mystery to this day.
You will return slowly to Cruzpata, as the path back is steep. The return trip takes about 45 minutes. A village resident will be waiting for you with a lunch prepared using chocho. This is the time to regain your strength, after which you will also have the opportunity to try grinding the chocho traditionally, using a batan.
Discovery Route 2: The Revash Mausoleums and Muesca Houses (San Bartolo)
The Revash Mausoleums and Muesca Houses Discovery Route starts in the community of San Bartolo. The Revash Mausoleums are funerary houses of the Chachapoya civilization and are already well-known in the region.
From Chachapoyas, you will take the road that follows the Utcubamba Valley for about 45 minutes before arriving in San Bartolo. After an explanation of local beliefs, you will begin by visiting a Muesca house, a fascinating example of traditional architecture where logs are assembled without nails. The cultural promoter will explain how villagers build their houses on earthen floors.
Next, on your way to the Revash Mausoleums, you will learn to identify medicinal plants still used by the locals. The hike takes about 30 minutes. Upon arrival at the viewpoint, you will have an amazing view of the mausoleums as well as the valley. The funerary structures are nestled in the heights and resemble multi-story houses.
After a short break, you will head back to San Bartolo. In the village, you will share a typical lunch in a Muesca house, followed by a demonstration of how to make local artisanal bread. You’ll get to shape the small loaves, put them in the adobe oven, and then enjoy tasting them—a true delight!
Discovery Route 3: Chuquiaj, the Water Bird – The Rain Dance (Cuemal)
A brand-new route created for the Routes of the Ecomuseum of Chachapoyas is the Chuquiaj Discovery Route in Cuemal. Until now, Cuemal was not really on the tourist map. But it’s a village with a lot to share!
Traditionally, the community lives off agriculture. And where there’s agriculture, there’s a need for rain. Even today, the villagers perform the grive dance, an ancestral ritual associated with controlling the rain cycle. This dance is part of local celebrations, and you can observe how this tradition reflects the community’s intimate connection with nature. Each movement is an ode to water and the fertility of the land.
From Chachapoyas, it takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes to reach Cuemal. The visit begins at the village’s interpretation center, where the cultural promoter will briefly introduce the history of the Ecomuseums project, especially the story behind this particular route: El Chuquiaj (the water bird).
The Chuquiaj Dance
There will be time to interact with the community in Cuemal’s main square, learn the village’s history, and enjoy a presentation of the Chuquiaj dance. The costumes are beautiful, and you will see the pride on the villagers’ faces as they share their tradition. It’s a wonderful moment of connection. For those interested, there is the possibility to join the dancers, with costumes and accessories available.
Continuing, you will visit a field with vegetables and other aromatic local products, where you will learn about the stages of sowing and harvesting. In this part, you will have the opportunity to touch, smell, taste with all your senses.
Around noon you will move on to the tasting of the 7 potajes, a festive lunch, where you will learn in detail what ingredients are used and how the cooks prepared them.
After lunch you will take the road back to Chachapoyas.
Discovery Route 4: Encounter with Juan el Osito (La Jalca) and the Ollape Archaeological Site
La Jalca Grande is known as the folkloric capital of the Amazonas region, as well as for its church. From Chachapoyas, it takes about 2 hours to reach La Jalca Grande.
This excursion, which is also new in the region, will allow visitors to immerse themselves in the fascinating history and culture of the Jalquina community.
After a welcome from the locals, you will head to the Jalca Grande Interpretation Center. This is the starting point for the Juan el Osito route. The cultural promoter will share with you their worldview and the evolution of their Chachapoya culture over 1,500 years of coexistence in the Jalca territory.
You will then visit the museum (which is located right in front of the interpretation center), where you will discover an array of valuable cultural artifacts, such as ceramics, lithic tools, and textiles. After a short 10-minute walk, you will reach the home of a local Jalquino storyteller. Through his tales, you will learn the legend of Juan el Osito, a mythical character beloved by the population.
You will return to the main square, where you will hear the explanation of the historic Plaza de la Jalca, the founding of Chachapoyas city for the first time, and its relation to Juan el Osito. You will also visit the cathedral, which is actually one of the oldest stone churches in the Amazonas region.
Juan el Osito’s Dance
Finally, you will stop at the main square to enjoy the presentation of the bear dance. The staging tells the story of the capture of the papa bear and the arrival of Juan Osito in the village. It is a moment full of emotion and joy.
You will leave by car to reach the Cuta viewpoint. From here you will be able to connect with nature and discover the history of the Toche River. This river was once the only source of water in the town of Jalca Grande. This is where papa bear kidnapped Tomaza, Juan el Osito’s mother.
It will be lunch time! You will return to the village of La Jalca to go to the house of a Jalquino resident to enjoy a delicious traditional lunch. From October to March, you will eat everything green like green bean soup with green pumpkin. From May to September everything that is dry like the traditional putumote (it is made from dried beans and dried corn).
You will then continue the route for a 20-minute drive until reaching the beginning of the walk to visit the archaeological site of Ollape. The walk will last approximately 35 minutes to reach the archaeological site of Ollape. There you will learn the importance in the history of the city of La Jalca. You will also appreciate the testimony of the worldview of the ancient villagers through zigzag and diamond-shaped friezes typical of the Chachapoya culture.
Finally this day of the Routes of the Ecomuseum of Chachapoyas will come to an end and you will take the car to return to Chachapoyas.
Discovery Route 5: La Minga, Music and Dance for Abundance (Nuevo Huacas)
The final proposal of the Routes of the Ecomuseum of Chachapoyas is located in Nuevo Huacas, about 1 hour and 30 minutes from Chachapoyas.
The Minga is the expression of a still-living tradition of collective labor. Accompanied by music and dance, this day of solidarity will allow you to understand the importance of mutual help in the community. It’s a moment of gratitude to Mother Earth for her generosity, shared with the villagers in a festive and friendly atmosphere.
The villagers welcome you with typical melodies and dances from the community. The mingueros will briefly tell you the village’s history and the significance of the Minga custom. Then, you will be invited to put on traditional costumes, and the cultural promoter will present the Benllas dance.
Participate in the Minga!
You will then head to the chacra (the farm) where the minga will take place. The villagers will provide an explanation of the cultural and agricultural landscape in the open air. The cultural promoter will explain the meaning of the Minga. An ancestral practice of cooperation that brings together neighbors, friends, and family with the common goal of plowing a field. Today, you will be part of this agricultural Minga!
The farm owner will invite all participants to start the activity. The Minga is accompanied by music, with performances on the anduviera and caja (local instruments). Throughout the day, food is offered to the mingueros while they work in the fields. Typically, coca and guarapo (a fermented sugarcane drink) are served to provide energy and strength.
Around midday, you will take a break to enjoy a traditional lunch. The cooks will lay out ponchos on the table as tablecloths to serve yanui (a combination of various local products and soups).
After lunch, you will bid farewell to the villagers and make your way back to Chachapoyas.
What to Remember!
During your trip to the Amazonas region, you can easily incorporate one or two activities from the Routes of the Ecomuseum of Chachapoyas. You will feel the essence of Chachapoya traditions, discover ancestral rituals, and participate in authentic community activities.
These discovery routes are not just a gateway to the past but also a vision for a sustainable future in this unique region of Peru.
